Browse the menswear collections for fall 2022 and you will find an amazing number of coats. Great coats! Beautiful coats! But underneath all those layers there are often costumes, and underneath those costumes, well, the clothes the guys will be wearing every day doesn’t really seem to matter. Where are the new ideas for men’s fashion? The new shapes, silhouettes and fabrics that will upset the sartorial tradition in 2022?
4SDesigns by Angelo Urrutia offers quality outerwear, but the story of this collection is one of textile experimentation. Working with factories across Italy, he has developed pastel speckled tweed, irregular quilted viscose plaid, virgil wool tubico, cashmere wool melton, recycled cotton bouclé… listing them all would take up space. for this whole review. He then transforms these materials, some a little raw, like bonded tie fabric, and others refined, like leafy brocade, into humble silhouettes that are easy to adopt.
Urrutia is an expert in eliminating padding and stuffiness from men’s clothing. The interior of each garment is meticulously thought out – his hooded sheepskin poncho has lined interior pockets covered in fur – but the overall effect is something of a shrug. Not too valuable. Jacket sleeves are unlined, camp shirts are airy, and pants have an adjustable waistband in most cases and a fair amount of pleating in others. The laid-back nature is drawn from the upbringing of the queens of Urrutia and the way he and his friends now dress – even at dinner at a Michelin-starred restaurant, everyone looks comfortable, comfortable and at home.
Which brings us to the larger idea here. Inspired by the property of the old City & Country magazines, he called this collection Town & Country, Homeland – in Spanish Pueblo & Pais, Patria – exploring ideas about what it means to feel at home. A yellow knit gets its graphics from the signs at the US-Mexico border. Handmade headpieces and feather designs are inspired by Central American culture. (Urrutia is from El Salvador.) Other pieces nod to Armani and Chanel, but pack less punch than what the designer does best: crafting clothes for the men of the world with the bravery of a new kind of luxury. Much cooler than a collection of coats.